A true Slip Yoke Eliminator kit for the NP242-HD Jeep transfer case found in many Grand Cherokees. This is not a hack and tap; it is a brand new 32 spline rear output shaft, new seal retainer and seal, and new output flange. The output flange is compatible with 1310, 1350, and 1410 series drive shafts. This only fits the 242 HD transfer case with a stock 32 spline rear output shaft and only the version that uses a 6" long aluminum cone style seal retainer and will not work in a 242 out of a Jeep Liberty. If you have the 242 transfer case with a 27 spline stock output shaft, which is more common in a Jeep XJ, you will need the standard 242 SYE instead.
Key product features
- New output shaft (not a hack and tap).
- Made in the USA
- Comes with versatile output flange that will work with many different sizes and types of drive shaft.
- Uses standard type output flange. Does not require a specially machined and shortened yoke or flange.
- Maintains the stock speedometer housing.
- Shortens the output shaft of by a whopping 4.5 inches!
An essential upgrade that everyone should do if they plan 4" or higher lift. The machining on this is really nice and I couldn't find a single flaw. I've done hack-n-tap SYEs in the past because I was too afraid to open up my transfer case. Spend a few hundred more and get this full SYE kit. Don't be afraid to open things up, it only took me a few hours. Taking apart the case is easy to do under the jeep. Keep the transmission in neutral. Make sure you have a pair of heavy duty lock ring pliers. This makes the process much easier. The instructions seem to be for the regular 242 but it doesn't really matter because the 242 and 242HD are so similar. Disassembly and installation is the same.
There was a lot of metal shavings/chips stuck inside the oil passages of the output shaft. I almost didn't notice before installing it. A lot of picking at it and compressed air got it all out, just make sure yours is clean before installing it. I found that bailing wire chucked to a drill broke apart the junk nicely which then came out with compressed air (wear safety glasses when doing this). It would have been nice if they got the chips out because someone is bound to install this without noticing. Also the output bearing was REALLY tight on the output shaft. Not quite as tight as a carrier bearing but it was tight enough that it wouldn't go all the way in until I tightened down the tail housing flange. It'll need a bearing puller and/or heat to take out if I ever need to.
Extremely well machined output shaft. Comes with instructions with excellent photos and included tips and tricks to help the process. I did this without removing the transfer case or the front drive shaft and had no problems. I raised the vehicle a few inches on jack stands for more room. Ramps would also work. Some comments regarding the instructions: My tail cone had 4 bolts (the instructions say to remove the 3 bolts holding it on). The instructions point out there is one odd looking bolt among many which hold the case halves together. The instructions call it a 12mm, 12 point bolt but mine was a 10mm bolt and required a 10mm socket. It will be obvious-mine was top center. You will need a 12 point socket for it-I did not have room for a 12 point closed end wrench. Also, that bolt is long enough to stick out beyond the back side of the transfer case so beware those exposed threads may need wire brushing and a shot of PB Blaster or similar. Mine got very tight as I was trying to remove it and I became concerned about the aluminum case ear cracking so be very careful. None of the other bolts stick past the backside of the case. I needed a green scratch pad to help remove the old RTV sealant from the case halves before beginning reassembly. However you remove the old sealant be careful to not scratch the aluminum sealing surfaces. When reassembling, the instructions say to use the original four 10mm X 30mm flanged bolts to reattach the bearing housing. My original bolts did not have flanged heads but after considering it I thought it important enough to have them so I hunted some down at a local hardware store. Something you may want to consider before you begin this project. Also, when reinstalling the bearing housing the output bearing kept unseating itself rearward about 5/16". The bearing is not tightly seated in the aluminum housing but it is a tight fit onto the output shaft. It was so tight of a fit on the shaft that it was over powering the loose fit on the aluminum housing and pushing the bearing rearward beyond the housing. To fix things, I snugged the bearing housing bolts then used a heat gun to carefully heat the inner race of the bearing to the point that it was too hot to touch. Then I carefully tapped that inner race into its place on the shaft using a brass punch in a cross pattern much like tightening wheel lug nuts. Worked very well. The kit includes four grade 8 bolts and lock washers which are for attaching the drive shaft to the drive flange. That's not made clear. The instructions have excellent pictures and a thorough write-up however I thought others may benefit from the few uncertainties I experienced. If you are considering this project, don't be fearful of the process. It is straight forward and with the proper tools, a very satisfying addition.
I just recieved my 242HD SYE today. I have to say, it's too bad this output shaft is buried in the case, it is a work of art! I am starting the rebuild tonight, driveshafts are next!
Been a long time customer of Tom Woods for a reason, they build it right the first time. When I decided to build a 242 HD transfer case for my 2004 Jeep Wj there was no question to who I would go to for my SYE kit, Tom Woods. Again I'm a very satisfied customer... thanks to the guys at Tom Woods!